What makes this dish —- despite ingredients which may seem strange to a lot of the population— exceptional? Hearty, deeply flavorful, lapped in a rich, glossy, savory sauce, spiked with red wine, it’s serious winter-time satisfaction in a bowl. It is everything you want from a stew, from the seductive aroma with which it warms the house, to its robust, filling, substance and big, distinct (”manly,” we might have said in pre-feminist days) chunks of potato and other vegetables. Dried shiitakes hydrate in the ragout; garlic (and no wimpy amount of it, either) is used almost as a vegetable in its own right. The garlic chunks mellow during the cooking process, yet what they lose in individual integrity they give to the dish as a whole.
But though this ragout is everything you want, it’s nothing you don’t — no fatty layer requiring degreasing, no stew beef cooked past flavor and recognition to mere stringiness. And, though it is absolutely impossible that something so stalwart should be low-fat, low-fat it is. Serve it in a bowl, accompanied by a hunk of good bread, starting off with a big green salad splashed with a tart vinaigrette or non-sweet sesame dressing. Or, try it ladled over any cooked grain or pasta. In any case, you’ll have a wafting fragrance in the house presaging the most fulfilling of cold-weather meals — a combination guaranteed to console the disheartened and nourish the dispirited.
Please note: I always do this dish in a heavy-gauge, non-stick Dutch oven. If you use a conventional cast-iron or enamel-clad one, spray the heck out of it with Pam cooking spray before you start, and expect to stir the dish considerably more often than I suggest here to prevent sticking.

Pam cooking spray
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large onion, cut vertically into crescent-shaped slivers
1/4 cup unbleached white flour
3 1/2 cups vegetable stock
1/4 cup nutritional yeast
1/4 cup tamari/shoyu soy sauce
1 cup hearty, full-bodied, tannic red wine, such as a Cabernet, Barolo, or Barbaresco
1 tablespoon umeboshi vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
A major grinding of fresh black pepper — 1/2 to 1 teaspoon or so
1 cup canned diced tomato in tomato puree
8 to 10 cloves garlic, peeled, quartered or thickly sliced
1/4 teaspoon Dragon Salt**
6 to 8 dried shiitake mushrooms, broken roughly into quarters
1 packages (8 ounces) “traditional-style” dark seitan, well-drained, diced into stew-beef size squares, 1 to 1 1/2 inch or so
4 small potatoes, scrubbed, peel on, cut in large pieces
2 carrots, scrubbed, peel on, sliced in 1/2 inch rounds
1 parsnip, halved lengthwise, sliced in 1/2 inch half-rounds
2 cups green beans, stemmed and sliced into 2 to 3 inch long pieces
1 zucchini, halved lengthwise, and sliced into 1/2 inch half-rounds

Minced fresh flat-leaf parsley, optional, for garnish

1. If using a conventional Dutch oven, spray it with Pam cooking spray and see note above; you’ll have better results with a non-stick one. Heat the Pam cooking sprayed or non-stick Dutch oven with the oil over medium high heat, and add the onions, stirring to sauté for about 6 minutes, or until they start to brown but are still a little crisp.

2. Sprinkle the onions with flour, and, lowering heat to medium, continue to cook for about 4 minutes. Add about 1/2 cup vegetable stock, stirring it in to smooth it into the flour. When the flour is incorporated and the liquid is free of any flour lumps or clumps, add a little more stock, then, finally, the entire remaining amount, stirring often. Add nutritional yeast (you will think it’s going to lump, but the flakes will dissolve), soy sauce, red wine, umeboshi vinegar, honey, black pepper, tomato, garlic, and Dragon Salt. Bring mixture to a boil, then turn down to simmer.

3. Drop in the dried shiitake mushrooms (they will hydrate as the stew cooks), with the seitan, potatoes, carrots, parsnip, and green beans. Lower heat slightly, cover, and let ragout barely simmer, stirring every so often, for 35 minutes, or until potatoes are nearly done. Lift lid, drop in zucchini, recover, and let cook another 10 to 15 minutes more, or until vegetables are tender but still distinct. Serve, hot, if desired with a sprinkle of parsley.

Variations:

I’ve been so delighted with the flavors and textures of this stew that I’ve prepared countless variations of it over the years.

Tempeh’d Deep December Ragout of Shiitakes & Winter Vegetables with Garlic & Red Wine : Omit seitan. Stir pre-baked tempeh or tempeh “bacon” pieces into the stew, with the zucchini, in the last 10 to 15 minutes of cooking time.

Deep December Ragout of Shiitakes & Winter Vegetables with Garlic, Garbanzos & Red Wine: Omit seitan. Drain a 15-ounce can of garbanzo beans, reserving both liquid and beans. Use the bean liquid as part of the vegetable stock called for, as you make the recipe above. Add the beans in the last 10 to 15 minutes of cooking, when you add the zucchini

4 to 6 servings

**Dragon Salt

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

A homemade seasoning with serious kick.
Some years ago at the inn we used a hot but nicely herbal seasoning salt from New Orleans. The packaging — a round yellow tube with bright drawings of fish — made it resemble a canister of fish food, but we loved it anyway, though not being wild about the granulated garlic it included (drying and granulating it, I think, loses the best of garlic’s soul and leaves only the worst of its flesh). I used the stuff for awhile on almost anything — pasta, vegetables, egg dishes of all kinds. When it quit being available, I began making our own, which I love even more — because it doesn’t have granulated garlic or garlic salt. When using it, I often combine it with a little commercially made roasted garlic oil, or just some fresh-pressed garlic and olive oil.

1/3 cup salt, preferably sea salt
1/3 cup medium-coarsely ground black pepper
1/4 cup ground cayenne pepper
1/4 cup dried dill
2 tablespoons sweet Hungarian paprika
1 tablespoon dried sweet basil leaves
1 tablespoon celery seed

1.Combine all the ingredients, tossing gently. Stand back as you toss; due to the cayenne, tossing can be a bit cough-producing.
2.Transfer to a jar with a tightly fitting lid. This keeps well indefinitely, though it begins to lose potency after a year or so.

http://www.dragonwagon.com/11seitan_ragout.htm

As the tart bakes, some of the beet juice will color the custard and the goat cheese, giving each slice a pretty, almost marbleized look. Since the flavors are a riff on the classic beet, walnut, and goat cheese salad, this tart pairs especially well with greens tossed with a bright vinaigrette. A small slice also makes a somewhat unusual but delicious side dish to grilled lamb chops.

FOR THE PASTRY
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and well chilled
4 to 5 tablespoons ice water

FOR THE FILLING
2 to 3 small beets
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons dry white wine
3 large eggs
3/4 cup heavy cream
4 ounces fresh goat cheese
1 cup chopped walnuts
1 tablespoon walnut oil (optional)
About 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

MAKE THE PASTRY
1. In a mixing bowl, combine the flour and the salt. Quickly cut the butter into the flour, using a pastry blender or your fingers, until the butter pieces are the size of large peas. (Alternatively, cut the butter into the flour by pulsing it 8 to 10 times in a food processor, being careful not to overheat and overmix the butter.)

2. Dump the mixture out onto a clean surface and make a well in the center of the flour. Pour the ice water into the well. Using just your fingertips and working quickly, combine the flour mixture and the water. Work just until the water is absorbed. The dough will be ragged but should hold together when you squeeze it. If it seems dry, sprinkle on a few more drops of water. Form the dough into a log shape about 8 inches long and parallel to the edge of your work surface. With the heel of your hand, push down and away from you all along the line of dough. With a pastry scraper, gather up the dough, shape it back into a log, and repeat the smearing action. This technique, known as fraisage, will form sheets of butter in the dough, creating a light crust almost like puff pastry, with the pastry scraper, gather the dough up into a ball; it’s fine if the dough does not come together completely at this time.

3. Wrap the dough well in plastic wrap, flatten it a bit, and let it rest in the refrigerator for at least a half hour before rolling. The dough will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. You can also freeze the dough, well wrapped; allow it to defrost for a day in the refrigerator before using it.

4. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough so it is slightly larger around than the 10-inch tart mold and about 1/8 inch thick. If your rolling yielded something unlike a circle, use a knife to trim the raggedy edges, but keep the size of the circle larger than the tart pan. Carefully lift the dough over the tart pan and allow it to fall into the pan, centering it fairly well. Gently ease the dough into where the sides of the pan meet the bottom. If necessary, lift the dough that’s hanging over the edge and bring some of the excess down into the pan to ensure that the dough is following the pan’s contours. Once the dough covers the entire bottom of the pan, fold the excess dough over into the pan to make thicker walls. Press the dough into the edges of the pan and build up the wall of dough slightly so that it’s a bit higher than the edge of the pan. Refrigerate the dough for at least 30 minutes before baking.

5. To blind-bake the tart crust heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line the mold with aluminum foil, and then fill the foil with baking weights, dried beans, or rice. Bake for 12 minutes. Remove the foil and beans and continue to bake until the crust is well browned. Remove from the oven and let the crust cool a bit before assembling your tart.

MAKE THE FILLING
1. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Wash the beets and dry them with a paper towel. Place the beets in a small ovenproof pan, drizzle them with the olive oil, and season with a little salt and pepper. Cover the pan with aluminum foil. Bake until the beets are tender when pierced with a paring knife, about 1 hour. Allow the beets to cool. Peel the beets using a small knife and cut them into a medium dice. (Be careful, as beet juice can stain counters, towels, and even your hands; you may want to wear gloves for this step.)

2. Heat the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, season with a little salt, and cook, stirring every few minutes, until the onion is just tender, about 7 minutes. Add the white wine and cook for another minute, scraping up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan.

3. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Toss the beets and onion together and put them into the blind-baked tart shell. Whisk together the eggs and cream, season well with salt and pepper, and carefully pour over the beets and onion, letting the cream seep evenly into the beets. Dot the goat cheese all over the top of the tart. Put the tart on a baking sheet and bake it for 20 minutes. Sprinkle the chopped walnuts on top of the tart and drizzle the walnut oil over it, if using. Return the tart to the oven and bake until just set, an additional 15 to 20 minutes. Sprinkle the tart with the chopped parsley and let it rest for at least 5 minutes before serving.

Serves 6 to 8 Makes 1 10-inch tart

by Gordon Hamersley with Joanne McAllister Smart
from Bistro Cooking At Home
(Broadway Books, 2003)

1 (3-pound) chicken, cut into serving pieces and trimmed of all visible fat
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or malt vinegar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon peeled and grated or crushed ginger root
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
vegetable oil, for brushing
fresh cilantro sprigs, for garnish
slices of cucumber, red (spanish) onion, tomato and lemon, for garnish

Prick the flesh of the chicken all over with a fork. Then, using a sharp knife, cut slashes in the flesh to allow the marinade to penetrate. Place the chicken in a nonreactive large, shallow dish.

In a nonreactive bowl, combine the yogurt, lemon juice or vinegar, garlic, ginger, cumin, ground coriander, cayenne pepper, cardamom, cloves, black pepper and salt. STir until well-mixed, then pour the mixture over the chicken and rub it into the flesh, turning the chicken several times. Cover and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight. Do not marinate for longer than 2 days. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before cooking.

The chicken may be grilled or roasted. If using a charcoal grill, prepare a fire for direct-heat cooking. Position the grill rack 5 inches from the fire. Allow the coals to burn until white ash covers them and the heat is moderate.

Remove the chicken from the marinade, pressing lightly to extract excess marinade, and brush with oil. Place the chicken pieces on a well-oiled grill rack and grill, covered, with the vents open, turning 3 or 4 times, 45 minutes or until the juices run clear when a piece is pierced near the bone with a knife.

If roasting, preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Place the chicken on a rack in a roasting pan, brush with oil, and cook, turning once, 25 to 30 minutes until the juices run clear when a piece is pierced near the bone with a knife.

Serve with sprigs of cilantro and slices of cucumber, red onion, tomato and lemon. Makes 4 servings.

recipe from Savoring India by Julie Sahni

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon grated fresh gingerroot
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon cayenne
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 green pepper, seeded and finely chopped
2 large carrots, finely chopped
2 large parsnips, finely chopped
1 cup orange juice
1 large tart apple, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons raisins
salt and pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a large skillet.
Add the gingerroot, garlic, onion, and spices, and cook, stirring, over low heat, until the onion is soft.
Add the remaining vegetables, orange juice, apple, and raisins; stir and cook for about 15 minutes over medium heat, until the vegetables are tender.
Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve it with rice and chutney.

Yield: 6 servings

Source: http://www.almanac.com/recipes/search/onerecipe.php?number=1334

1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 (.25 ounce) package active dry yeast
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sunflower seeds
3 tablespoons sesame seeds
3 tablespoons shelled pumpkin seeds
1/3 cup rolled oats
1 cup water
2 tablespoons molasses
1 egg white
1 tablespoon 1% milk

In a large bowl, combine the whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, yeast, and salt. In another bowl, mix the seeds with the oats.
In a saucepan, combine the water and molasses and warm the mixture over low heat until a thermometer reads 120 to 130 degrees F (50 to 55 degrees C) .
Add the liquid to the flour mixture with the egg white. Mix together until a soft dough forms.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead for 10 minutes; then shape into a ball. Lightly oil a large stainless steel bowl. Add the dough and turn to cover the dough with the oil. Cover the bowl with a tea towel and let rise in a warm place for 2 hours until doubled in size.
When the dough has risen, punch the dough down with your fists and add all but 2 Tablespoons of the seed mixture working it into the dough. Reserve the 2 Tablespoons of seed mixture for the topping. Shape the dough into a loaf by rolling it into a 12 x 8 inch rectangle and then roll up by its shortest end. Pinch the ends together and tuck underneath. Place in a non-stick 9x5 inch loaf pan with the seam underneath. Cover the loaf pan with a tea towel and let rise for 1 hour until doubled in bulk.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Brush the top of the loaf with milk and sprinkle on the reserved seed mixture. Bake the bread for 30 minutes or until the loaf sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. Remove the bread from the pan and let cool completely.
Makes 12 servings

2c. pumpkin puree
1 1/4c honey
4 eggs
1c. Milk
1 Tb oil
1 Tb cinnamon
1 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground cloves

3 1/3c. whole wheat flour
1Tb baking soda

1c. raisins or sultanas

Whisk first 9 ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Mix together flour, baking soda and add to
mixture whisking until just blended. Do not overmix. Stir in raisins. fill non-stick loaf pans
(or lined/greased muffin tins-adjust cooking time accordingly) and bake 350* 30-35 min. Cool 15 min before removing.

Source:unknown

4c. unbleached whole wheat flour
2tsp salt
1 envelope yeast
1 1/4c lukewarm water (easiest way to attain proper temp is to use half cold water and half hot water)
2 TB honey
2 TB plus 1tsp olive oil
3/4 c. sunflower seeds
2TB poppy seeds
2TB sesame seeds

Measure flour, salt and yeast into a large bowl.
Measure the water in a cup, then stir in honey and 2TB olive oil. Pour the liquid into the dry ingredients.

Mix to form a soft dough. The dough should be wet enough to cling to the bowl. Add more lukewarm water if necessary.
Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured surface.

Knead the dough for 10 minutes. Rub the tsp of olive oil around a large bowl. Turn the dough in the oil, the cover the bowl in plastic wrap.
Let the dough stand in a warm place for about 1 1/2 hours or until it has doubled in size.

Turn out dough and pat flat. Scatter with 1/2c of sunflower seeds, then roll up and knead for 20-30 turns. Shape into a round, cut into 8 wedges, then roll into balls.
Dip 3 balls in poppy seeds, 2 in sesame, 2 in sunflower and 1 in whole wheat flour. Grease the 8 inch springform pan. Place balls inside and let rise for 35-40 min.
Preheat oven to 450. Bake for 10 minutes. Lower the heat to 400* for 20 minutes longer. Release springform catch, remove bread from the pan and test. Cool on rack.

a small piece of cinnamon
1 tbsp cloves
1 tbsp mace
1 tbsp grated nutmeg
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tbsp allspice berries

Grind all the spices to a fine powder. in an airtight jar, the mixture will keep for 3-4 months. For use in cookies, cakes and puddings.

2 thick slices of lemon
2 thick slices of orange
2 slices of peeled fresh ginger
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 small bay leaf
2 cups fresh cranberries
4 pounds boneless loin of venison, at room temperature
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 teaspoons freshly ground pepper
3/4 teaspoon finely chopped juniper berries
2 cups dry red wine
2 cups beef or venison stock
2 Tablespoons cold butter, cut into pieces
Fresh thyme sprigs, for garnish

In a medium nonreactive saucepan, combine the lemon, orange, ginger, sugar and bay leaf with 1 cup of cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to moderate and boil, uncovered, until syrupy, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the cranberries, then remove from heat and cool.
Transfer the mixture to a glass container, coer and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days, stirring once or twice during that time.
Preheat the oven to 400F. Rub the venison with the olive oil, 3/4 teaspoon of the salt, 1 teaspoon of the pepper and 1/2 teaspoon of the chopped juniper berries, pressing the seasonings into the meat. Set the loin on a rack in a roasting pan and roast, basting frequently with the pan
juices, until medium-rare (about 135 degrees F on a meat thermometer), 25 to 30 minutes. Cover the venison loosely with foil and set aside for 10 to 15 minutes before carving.
Meanwhile, remove and discard the bay leaf and the lemon, orange and ginger slices from the cranberries. In a food processor or blender, puree half the cranberries and half the liquid until smooth. In a medium nonreactive saucepan, boil the wine over high heat until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 5 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Add the cranberry puree, reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.
Strain the remaining whole cranberries and add them to the sauce with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon each of salt, pepper and chopped juniper berries. Swirl in the cold butter.
Slice the venison thinly (stir any juices into the sauce) and serve with the sauce, reheated if necessary.

source: unknown

Each year I make 13 different types of cookies for the Yuletide season, this year’s selection is now up

2006 Yule Cookies

1 1/4c. flour
1/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
1/2c. butter, at rm temp
3/4c sugar
1 tsp vanilla
1 large egg
1 square (1oz) unsweetened chocolate, melted

Mix flour, baking powder and salt.
In a large bowl, beat butter, vanilla, egg and sugar with electric mixer until pale and fluffy.
With mixer on low, gradually stir in flour mixture until blended.
Divide dough in half. Mix melted chocolate into one half.
Wrap each half in plastic and chill 2 hours or until firm enough to roll.
Dampen a flat surface with water and cover with 18in long sheet of plastic wrap.
Lightly flour the plastic wrap. On plastic wrap. roll plain dough out to form a 16 x 6in
rectangle. Repeat with chocolate dough.
Invert chocolate dough on top of the plain dough. Peel the plastic off top.
Press it down gently with rolling pin
Roll up from one long side, peeling the plastic away as you roll, into an even log, making sure centre is tight.
Cut log in half. Wrap halves in plastic and chill overnight.
Heat oven to 350*. Grease cookie sheets. Cut each log into 36 slices and place 1in apart on cookie sheets.
Bake, one sheet at a time 12 min or until lightly browned around edges. Remove to wire rack to cool.
Store in airtight container at room temp up to 2 weeks or freeze.

Yields: 72 cookies.

2 1/4c. flour
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp cream of tartar
1/8 tsp salt
1/2 c. butter, room temp
1c. packed light brown sugar
1 large egg
1/2 tsp vanilla
1/2c. almonds, finely chopped
1/2c. fresh or frozen cranberries, chopped
1 tsp. freshly grated lemon peel

For decoration: halved fresh cranberries, granulated sugar

In a medium sized bowl, mix flours, baking soda, cream of tartar and salt.
In a large bowl beat butter and sugar until fluffy. beat in egg and vanilla.
Gradually add in flour mixture until blended.
Gently stir in almonds, lemon peel and cranberries.

Divide dough in half, wrap each half separately and chill about 30 min or until
firm enough to handle. Shape each half into an 8in long roll.
Wrap and chill about 3 hours until hard. Heat oven to 350*.
Grease cookie sheets, with serrated knife cut 1 roll at a time (keep other half in refrigerator)
into 32 slices. Place 1 in apart on cookie sheet.
Press a cranberry half, cut side down, into each centre. Sprinkle with sugar.
Bake 12-14 min or until edges are golden.
Remove to wire rack to cool. Store in airtight container up to 1 week or freeze.

Yields 64

1/2 c. butter, softened
2/3c firmly packed light brown sugar
1 egg
1/4c unsulfured molasses
2 3/4c. flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp grated nutmeg
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground cloves
1 pkg (8oz) cream cheese, softened
1 pkg (10 oz) condensed mincemeat (this is drier than the jarred variety)

In a large bowl combine all ingredients and mix on low just until blended.
Increase speed to medium and beat 2 min until well-blended.
Sprinkle a sheet of wax paper with flour.
With a floured rolling pin, roll dough into an 18x11 rectangle.
Spread cream cheese onto dough. break mincemeat into small pieces and sprinkle over cheese.
Starting with the long side, using wax paper as a guide roll dough jellyroll style.
Cut into 1/2″ slices and reshape to form round spirals. Freeze, bake 325* for 15 min and cool.
Store in refrigerator.

Yields: 3 dozen

This is a recipe I have had for fifteen years or more, sadly part of the directions were eaten away by mice while packed away in my parent’s barn several years ago so I tried to recreate it from memory. These are moist, rich, dark cakes…stout is definitely the better choice of the two to use in this recipe.

Dublin Tea Cakes

1 jar (1lb) mixed candied fruits
1 pkg (10oz) currants or raisins
1 1/2c. chopped walnuts
2TB grated orange rind
4c. all purpose flour
2tsp. apple pie spice
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp salt
1c. butter
1 1/3c. firmly packed brown sugar
3 eggs
1c. stout or dark ale
heavey cream, whipped
candied cherries
walnut halves

Grease/dust with flour or line 24 muffin tins
Combine candied fruits, currants, nuts, orange rind in a very large bowl
Sift flour, apple pie spice, baking soda, salt onto wax paper.
Sprinkle 3/4 c. mixture over fruits and nuts, toss to coat.
Beat butter, brown sugar and eggs in a large bowl with mixer for three minutes or until fluffy.
Add stout and mix well.
Stir in remaining flour, 1 cup at a time alternating beating well after each addition.
Pour batter over fruits and nuts and mix well. pour into muffin tins.
Bake in a slow oven, 275* for 1 hour. Let sit and cool 10 min and turn out on rack to cool completely.

Wrap each cake tightly in plastic wrap then in aluminum foil. Store tightly covered at room temp.
Just before serving, pipe a circle of whipped cream on top.
Garnish with a candied red cherry and walnut if desired.

yields 24 cakes

If I had time amidst party catering this weekend and next I’d treat myself to this. Maybe next month…

Goats Cheese Roulade with Leek and Walnut Filling

Serves 6 to 8

2oz/55g butter
2oz/55g plain flour
1 pint/570ml strained flavoured milk (see ingredients and method below)
2oz/55g grated Cheddar
6oz/170g soft goats cheese, rindless
extra pepper, if liked

grated nutmeg
4 large eggs, separated
For the filling:
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 medium leeks, washed, trimmed and sliced thinly
chopped parsley
7oz/200g tub crème fraîche

3oz/85g walnuts, crushed and dry-roasted in a saucepan for several minutes (make sure to shake the pan)

a pinch of salt
freshly ground pepper

For the flavoured milk:
1 pint/570ml milk
1 onion, cut in half

1 bay leaf
1 stick of celery
a few peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon rock salt

To flavour the milk, put it in a saucepan with the onion, bay leaf, celery, peppercorns and rock salt and heat till a skin forms. Take the pan off the heat and leave to cool completely, so that the milk has time to be infused with all the flavours. When it is quite cold, strain it and set aside.

Line a baking tray measuring about 10in x 12in (25cm x 30cm) with baking parchment, putting a dab of butter at each corner to hold the paper firmly in place. Melt the butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour. Let this cook for a minute, before gradually adding the strained milk, stirring all the time - I find it best to use a wire whisk - until the sauce boils. Let it simmer gently for a moment, then take the pan off the heat and stir in the grated Cheddar and goats cheese. Season with pepper if you think it needs more, and nutmeg. Beat in the egg yolks, one by one.

Lastly, in a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites till they are very stiff and, with a large metal spoon, fold them quickly and thoroughly through the sauce. Pour and scrape this into the paper-lined tray and bake in a moderate oven, 350F/176C/Gas Mark 4, for 20 to 25 minutes, till the roulade feels firm to the touch and the surface is puffed up and golden. Remove from the oven, cover with a slightly dampened tea towel and leave to cool.

For the filling, measure the oil into a non-stick frying or sauté pan and cook the sliced leeks over a moderate heat, stirring, till they are very soft. Do try to slice them thinly - not only do they look and taste better, but they take a very short time to cook, about four to five minutes. Let the leeks cool.

Lay a sheet of baking parchment on a work surface or table. Scatter the chopped parsley over it. Take the short ends of paper in either hand and flip the roulade face down, as it were, on to the parsley. Peel the paper off the back of the roulade. Spread the crème fraîche over the surface, then scatter on the cooled nuts. Distribute the leeks over everything. I find a fork the easiest thing to use for this. Season with the merest pinch of salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper.

Roll the roulade up away from you and slip it on to a serving plate. Leave it rolled up in its paper if you do this more than an hour in advance, so it retains a tight shape. Slip it off the paper before serving.

Source: unknown